''OVERBOARD''
We arrived in Cambodia after a long border crossing. We were greeted by our 'chariot' (clapped out old bus) that was going to whisk us quickly away to Phomn Penh. There wasnt too much wrong with the bus, pretty standard 'old school' yankee looking school bus. It didnt excatly have aircon but hey, it was manageable! We were pretty happy with the bus that Mr Mo at 4000 Islands had sold us. Only problem was ........every friggin other Mr Mo on Don Det had sold their hostel dwellers the same ticket. What this means is that the bus was grossly over-packed. Sardine and tin are words the come to mind. The isles were literally piled waist high with all the big backpackers that us backpackers lug around. On top of this mass pile sat all the people who had been late getting up to cross the border and hence didnt have seats. It really was quite comical how overbooked it was. The show had to go on and so we set off into the hot Cambodian wilderness........a great start. Lucky we had seats!
After a few hours of driving we stop for the obligatory sandwich/pit stop. Some people were getting off here.....awesome. Little did we know that for the 10 people that got off another 15 had paid to get on! Cambodia....no idea of how to run a bus company.....lasting memory!
On the bus we met some cool people which was the only positive could take from the trip. One group of girls, the Norwegians (Kari, Sofie, Line and Ida) were going to be ''those people you keep bumping into'' ...........we saw and jammed with then in Phomn Penh , Ko Phangan, Ko Tao and Phi Phi.....
After a very long journey we arrived, knackered, in Phomn Penh (referred to as PP from now on). EVENTUALLY found a place to stay and decided that was us as we had to get up the next day to go to the S21 museum and the 'Killing Fields'.
In the morning we woke up and organised a tuk-tuk driver for the day. He took us wizzing around PP in style......driving well but aggressively. He literally drove us against oncoming traffic, showed us how to push into a wall of fast oncoming traffic by simply having the balls to do so....he really was quite phenomenal! He would have been a clear winner in the game chicken! He went and didnt gave a rats abouth the others! In between fearing for our lives we were able to take in some of PP's sights, sounds and smells. Let's just say that the smells are the first thing that hit you and they were definitely the most enduring memory for me. Even more so then driving up the side of a road against the traffic. PP is VERY polluted and has that strong open drain smell! Very far from ideal. All the people driving around on scooters wore face masks to protect themselves from the pollution. Sordid place, but apparently not as bad as Indian cities....which was nice to know!
The S21 museum was pretty a haunting experience. It was an old school that was transformed in an interrogation and torture barracks when Pol Pott and his Khymer Rouge regime set about setting back the clock. This setting back the clock to time zero was new beginning for Cambodia and involved cleansing Cambodia of anyone against his views (basically the educated elite). Anyone who was educated, wore glasses etc was to interrogated, tortured and killed. The old class rooms are now empty par the occasional old iron bed where the prisoners were strapped to and tortured. On the walls hang black and white pictures - a few spooky reminders of how dark and twisted the human heart can become. The pictures of what they did to some people are truly horrific and are easily comparable to what you would see in Auschwitz or Dachau.
Lots of Cambodians were tortured here before being lorried off a few miles to Killing Fields where they were brutally killed and thrown into mass graves. We wont go into detail as to the methods...we will let you read that for yourself when you hopefully go there. The place is something that we would recommend seeing and experiencing if you are in Asia. A very sobering experience, amidst all the hedoism. Especially sobering cause as you can tell by our pictures on facebook Asia it is mostly about buckets, parties and good times. It gave us a good (yet brief) perspective of what has happened to this country. We couldn't believe this happened only 30 years ago.....Again it just made us think of our troubles in this world. A credit card, an unrequited love or a fight with your mate all seem stupid when compared to he fate that some of these brave people had to endure!
After a full on day we explored a few of PP's food markets. They can be compared to South Americas....they sell and eat pretty much anything. We saw a basket of freshly skinned frogs with heads chopped off. The hearts were still beating....GROSS! After a pleasant dinner we hit town by the river and then later a more sketchy place called the Heart of Darkness. Quite appropriate after what we had seen that day. Had a good night though.....despite the clubs name it was actually VERY COOL!
Wham, bam and thankyou mam PP, now it was time for the relaxation of beach life! Sihnoukville, or SV from now, on was to be a few days of bliss.
Again on the bus we met a couple of cool peeps, two Swedish sisters, Kaysa and Stina. We had a great few days..............eating well, sleeping well, having good chats, reading book , driving around on scooters, sun tanning, exploring an island just off SV, long walks on the beach (forgive the cliche) ..................in terms of the rushed Cambodia experience this was the most relaxing. We had almost a week in SV just soaking up some rays and catching up on some rest as the last part of Laos and the initial part of Cambodia had been super full on.
After a few hours of driving we stop for the obligatory sandwich/pit stop. Some people were getting off here.....awesome. Little did we know that for the 10 people that got off another 15 had paid to get on! Cambodia....no idea of how to run a bus company.....lasting memory!
On the bus we met some cool people which was the only positive could take from the trip. One group of girls, the Norwegians (Kari, Sofie, Line and Ida) were going to be ''those people you keep bumping into'' ...........we saw and jammed with then in Phomn Penh , Ko Phangan, Ko Tao and Phi Phi.....
After a very long journey we arrived, knackered, in Phomn Penh (referred to as PP from now on). EVENTUALLY found a place to stay and decided that was us as we had to get up the next day to go to the S21 museum and the 'Killing Fields'.
In the morning we woke up and organised a tuk-tuk driver for the day. He took us wizzing around PP in style......driving well but aggressively. He literally drove us against oncoming traffic, showed us how to push into a wall of fast oncoming traffic by simply having the balls to do so....he really was quite phenomenal! He would have been a clear winner in the game chicken! He went and didnt gave a rats abouth the others! In between fearing for our lives we were able to take in some of PP's sights, sounds and smells. Let's just say that the smells are the first thing that hit you and they were definitely the most enduring memory for me. Even more so then driving up the side of a road against the traffic. PP is VERY polluted and has that strong open drain smell! Very far from ideal. All the people driving around on scooters wore face masks to protect themselves from the pollution. Sordid place, but apparently not as bad as Indian cities....which was nice to know!
The S21 museum was pretty a haunting experience. It was an old school that was transformed in an interrogation and torture barracks when Pol Pott and his Khymer Rouge regime set about setting back the clock. This setting back the clock to time zero was new beginning for Cambodia and involved cleansing Cambodia of anyone against his views (basically the educated elite). Anyone who was educated, wore glasses etc was to interrogated, tortured and killed. The old class rooms are now empty par the occasional old iron bed where the prisoners were strapped to and tortured. On the walls hang black and white pictures - a few spooky reminders of how dark and twisted the human heart can become. The pictures of what they did to some people are truly horrific and are easily comparable to what you would see in Auschwitz or Dachau.
Lots of Cambodians were tortured here before being lorried off a few miles to Killing Fields where they were brutally killed and thrown into mass graves. We wont go into detail as to the methods...we will let you read that for yourself when you hopefully go there. The place is something that we would recommend seeing and experiencing if you are in Asia. A very sobering experience, amidst all the hedoism. Especially sobering cause as you can tell by our pictures on facebook Asia it is mostly about buckets, parties and good times. It gave us a good (yet brief) perspective of what has happened to this country. We couldn't believe this happened only 30 years ago.....Again it just made us think of our troubles in this world. A credit card, an unrequited love or a fight with your mate all seem stupid when compared to he fate that some of these brave people had to endure!
After a full on day we explored a few of PP's food markets. They can be compared to South Americas....they sell and eat pretty much anything. We saw a basket of freshly skinned frogs with heads chopped off. The hearts were still beating....GROSS! After a pleasant dinner we hit town by the river and then later a more sketchy place called the Heart of Darkness. Quite appropriate after what we had seen that day. Had a good night though.....despite the clubs name it was actually VERY COOL!
Wham, bam and thankyou mam PP, now it was time for the relaxation of beach life! Sihnoukville, or SV from now, on was to be a few days of bliss.
Again on the bus we met a couple of cool peeps, two Swedish sisters, Kaysa and Stina. We had a great few days..............eating well, sleeping well, having good chats, reading book , driving around on scooters, sun tanning, exploring an island just off SV, long walks on the beach (forgive the cliche) ..................in terms of the rushed Cambodia experience this was the most relaxing. We had almost a week in SV just soaking up some rays and catching up on some rest as the last part of Laos and the initial part of Cambodia had been super full on.
''ANGKOR WHAAAATTTT? WITH 3 OF THE CRAZY BEER CHUGGING CANADIANS''
After SV, it was to SR we headed....SR is short for Siem Riep. Siem Riep is where the magnificent temples of of Angkor Wat are located. Now, as you all know by now the trip consisted of an over prescribed bus to PP, then a change and another packed bus north west to SR. A long journey!
We arrived in SR shattered and had a good sleep as we needed to be up crack of dawn to see the temples at first light! The next day was truly exceptional.....we had fantastic weather and a good driver that took us all around the temples! Lets just say that the temples were spectacular and we were dying to take loads of photos but you will never guess what? I thought my camera had half charge and would be fine! Well, it wasn't quite half and the battery died around 11 in the morn! Aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh well, just means another trip to Cambodia hey? That is sometimes a good thing - if you miss stuff it always gives you a reason to go back. South America - Columbia, Ecuador and Chile/Argentina's Patagonia region are things we didn't do so we will simply have to go back there. Okay, where were we.....Asia, yeah, right.
After a of walking around and climbing ancient temples it was time to quench the big thirst we had mustered! We went to the well renowned Angkor Wat club, sat down (at a large table) and ordered a couple of bevvies. The next thing a group of Canadian guys and girls come up and ask if they could share out large table. Now let me tell you these French Canadians weren't light drinkers by any means. Think they must have been tree fellers or something equally as hardcore. They liked to 'chug'/down beer and they weren't half bad at it! Anyways a night of heavy drinking ensued! Beer and music......2 things that can really cross barriers in connecting people! Thanks Beer....good night! In Cambodia the Beer is called Angkor Wat by the by.
In fact if you drive around most things have Angkor in it. Angkor Wat Grand Hotel, Angkor Wat Cigarettes, Angkor Watt Guesthouse, Royal Angkor Wat Hotel, Angkor Wat loo roll, Angkor Wat everything! Crazee! Enough Angkor Wattage for now....
As usual we got home around 5 in the morning, only to have a couple hours sleep before we had to get up and pack. Jules, in quite a messy state, wakes Guy up, in equally and unhappy place. Guy gets up and packs and goes to the front reception where our tuk tuk is supposedly meant to pick us up. Tuk Tuk is supposed to taxi us to our bus, where we embark for Bangkok. Guy comes though and Jules is rapping to this bird called Anne from Denmark. Anne will get mentions in the Thailand part of the trip.....be ready...she is a beaut! Anyway Anne is on our bus to Bangkok as well, a travel partner! We supposed to be leaving at 8......all good......so far!
Anyways 8 rolls by so Guy takes the bull by the horns and says lets get our own tuk tuk to the bus station otherwise we gonna miss our bus. Everyone concurs. We go to 2 different bus stops and soon figure we have missed the bus! We stop, speak to some dudes at a petrol station and they phone the agency we booked it through on their mobiles. Thai speaking follows. The random dude that helped us call the travel agency says 'jump in the car'. He will apparently take us to the border so we can catch up with the bus. Weird, but we agree when we find out the price is free. Still skeptical but at this stage we don't care. So we climb into the back seat: Jules, Anne and Guy. Then a little Thai man jumps in the back next to Guy (Poor little man). Then a woman and child climb in the front seat, then 2 fully grown Thai men jump into the drivers seat and off we go. We spent most of the first half hour trying to figure which one of the men was doing what with respect to the brake, clutch and accelerator! Fun Fun Fun...but we made it to the border! Relief!
We find the people we were supposed to travel with on the other side of the border waiting for new transport to Bangkok. We are stoked and sit down and relax. A couple mini vans rock up and our people start get on. Being polite guys we let other people get on first presuming another mini van would be just round the corner! How wrong we were......cause we were polite we had to wait 5 hours at the border for the big big bus to come through and pick us (and a million other people from other Cambodian destinations who were all behind us) up! An interesting day from hell.....the way we like to travel. Always more fun hungover! And so it was to Bangkok we went to pick up Guys friend, Christoffel Jacobus Hammond. Chis is aka ''C'', aka ''Chris No buoyancy control Hammond'', aka ''Chris High 5 Hammond''.....ask ''C'' for explanations.
So the big bus arrived on BKK and the last page was turned on our Cambodia chapter! In terms of chapters it was happy and sad, fun and fast, slow and mellow! An interesting little chapter in both our lives! Thanks Cambodia!
We arrived in SR shattered and had a good sleep as we needed to be up crack of dawn to see the temples at first light! The next day was truly exceptional.....we had fantastic weather and a good driver that took us all around the temples! Lets just say that the temples were spectacular and we were dying to take loads of photos but you will never guess what? I thought my camera had half charge and would be fine! Well, it wasn't quite half and the battery died around 11 in the morn! Aaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh well, just means another trip to Cambodia hey? That is sometimes a good thing - if you miss stuff it always gives you a reason to go back. South America - Columbia, Ecuador and Chile/Argentina's Patagonia region are things we didn't do so we will simply have to go back there. Okay, where were we.....Asia, yeah, right.
After a of walking around and climbing ancient temples it was time to quench the big thirst we had mustered! We went to the well renowned Angkor Wat club, sat down (at a large table) and ordered a couple of bevvies. The next thing a group of Canadian guys and girls come up and ask if they could share out large table. Now let me tell you these French Canadians weren't light drinkers by any means. Think they must have been tree fellers or something equally as hardcore. They liked to 'chug'/down beer and they weren't half bad at it! Anyways a night of heavy drinking ensued! Beer and music......2 things that can really cross barriers in connecting people! Thanks Beer....good night! In Cambodia the Beer is called Angkor Wat by the by.
In fact if you drive around most things have Angkor in it. Angkor Wat Grand Hotel, Angkor Wat Cigarettes, Angkor Watt Guesthouse, Royal Angkor Wat Hotel, Angkor Wat loo roll, Angkor Wat everything! Crazee! Enough Angkor Wattage for now....
As usual we got home around 5 in the morning, only to have a couple hours sleep before we had to get up and pack. Jules, in quite a messy state, wakes Guy up, in equally and unhappy place. Guy gets up and packs and goes to the front reception where our tuk tuk is supposedly meant to pick us up. Tuk Tuk is supposed to taxi us to our bus, where we embark for Bangkok. Guy comes though and Jules is rapping to this bird called Anne from Denmark. Anne will get mentions in the Thailand part of the trip.....be ready...she is a beaut! Anyway Anne is on our bus to Bangkok as well, a travel partner! We supposed to be leaving at 8......all good......so far!
Anyways 8 rolls by so Guy takes the bull by the horns and says lets get our own tuk tuk to the bus station otherwise we gonna miss our bus. Everyone concurs. We go to 2 different bus stops and soon figure we have missed the bus! We stop, speak to some dudes at a petrol station and they phone the agency we booked it through on their mobiles. Thai speaking follows. The random dude that helped us call the travel agency says 'jump in the car'. He will apparently take us to the border so we can catch up with the bus. Weird, but we agree when we find out the price is free. Still skeptical but at this stage we don't care. So we climb into the back seat: Jules, Anne and Guy. Then a little Thai man jumps in the back next to Guy (Poor little man). Then a woman and child climb in the front seat, then 2 fully grown Thai men jump into the drivers seat and off we go. We spent most of the first half hour trying to figure which one of the men was doing what with respect to the brake, clutch and accelerator! Fun Fun Fun...but we made it to the border! Relief!
We find the people we were supposed to travel with on the other side of the border waiting for new transport to Bangkok. We are stoked and sit down and relax. A couple mini vans rock up and our people start get on. Being polite guys we let other people get on first presuming another mini van would be just round the corner! How wrong we were......cause we were polite we had to wait 5 hours at the border for the big big bus to come through and pick us (and a million other people from other Cambodian destinations who were all behind us) up! An interesting day from hell.....the way we like to travel. Always more fun hungover! And so it was to Bangkok we went to pick up Guys friend, Christoffel Jacobus Hammond. Chis is aka ''C'', aka ''Chris No buoyancy control Hammond'', aka ''Chris High 5 Hammond''.....ask ''C'' for explanations.
So the big bus arrived on BKK and the last page was turned on our Cambodia chapter! In terms of chapters it was happy and sad, fun and fast, slow and mellow! An interesting little chapter in both our lives! Thanks Cambodia!
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